Patagonia Dreaming Part IV -
Far Away from Their Welsh Home

Created April 2006, Updated 4/2006

中文版 (Chinese)

There are so many things fascinating about Patagonia: the desolate landscape, the feeling of isolation, the wildlife (especially for penguin lovers), the association with one of the most interesting fairy tale in history ("the little prince"), and ....the afternoon tea?

The coastal area around Puerto Madryn offers an interesting insight into the settlement of the Welsh communities here in Patagonia. In late 19th century, Welsh nationalists, frustrated with the English domination, sought a land where they could exercise sufficuent political autonomy to retain their language and cultural identity. Deciding on isolated Patagonia, they appealed to Argentine government for immigration there.

Their journey was first trecherous and full of misfortune. The weather in Patagonia was not suitable for agriculture as in the Wales and winter here is much harsher than in their homeland. But eventually, the Welsh occupied the entire lower Chubut River valley. Names of most town here (including Puerto "Madryn") have their own Welsh origins. What the best the Welsh people brought is the British styled afternoon tea (please do not use the word "English" here).

Due to my suggestion (after reading the story of Patagonian Welsh immigrants in my "Lonely Planet" guidebook), we made an unscheduled stop at Gaiman on our way back from Punta Tombo.

Though much smaller than other towns in this region, Gaiman is famous for its Welsh teahouses, where you can have a pot of bottomless tea and a big plates of pastry for under $5 per person. Of course, many other tourists know about it too, so many teahouses become quite touristy and crowded.

Our tour guide Nora (who is of Welsh descent herself) helped us find a beautiful teahouse, Ty Cymraeg (yep, Welsh is difficult to pronounce), that was not overrun by tourists. The following is mainly the pictures of our afternoon tea.

Being able to have such nice afternoon tea and snack at such faraway corner of the world makes Patagonia an even more fascinating place, I think.

Please click the thumbnail on the pictures to see enlarged images
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This is what Ty Cymraeg teahouse looks like inside. Yes, you don't see other tourist there...

Exterior of the teahouse.

Standing between the flags of Argentina and the Wales in the teahouse's garden.

Beautiful roses in the garden.

Our table. Right ahead of me in this picture is our local tour guide, Nora.

The finger snacks we had with our tea: mini-scones, lemon tarts, plum pies...mouth watering yet?