Vancouver, Part II

There is another "must-see" (at least that's what guidebooks say) detour in my Vancouver trip. To Victoria, the capital and second largest city in British Columbia.

Similar to the history of Quebec Province (though much shorter), British Columbia's capital city is both older and more beautiful than its largest city (but I always prefer the "larger city", you know Montreal ranks higher than Quebec City in my favorite destination list). Built at the Southern tip of Vancouver Island, closer to Seattle in U.S.than Vancouver, Victoria is said to be the southmost city in the whole Canada (though it is, in fact, more northern than any big U.S. city except Anchorage, if you count it as a "city"). Vancouver Island looks small on in the map of British Columbia (which is bigger than California, Oregon, Washington states combined.), but it is almost as big as Taiwan. With only half a million population (and majority of them are in Victoria, and some in Naniamo) on the island, it is really a ‘wild place' to nature lovers. Unfortunately, without a car and a lot of time, my trip can only be limited in Victoria.

Because it is not on the Canadian mainland, I have to take ferry to get there from Vancouver. The whole trip takes 3 (if the ferry is not late and the roads from pier to both Victoria and Vancouver are not jammed) to 4 and a half hours, almost longer than from Montreal to Quebec City. You get on the bus and get off the bus, then get on the ferry and off the ferry, then get on the bus again, and you are in Victoria. Wow, sounds complicated.

But the trip itself is a good reward.

Sitting on the Top Deck

For a person who doesn't really swim, I think I've been on too many boats. After the ferry "Estonia" capsized on the Baltic Sea three years ago, I've been very watchful about the "RoRo" type of ferry boats. "RoRo" means "Roll-up, roll-off", a kind of boats whose one side of lower decks can be opened to let cars and bus drive into their lower decks. Because there is no guaranteed that "the gates" seal really tight when they roll up and close, there is possibility that the water leaks into boats when they are on the high sea. When there is too much water leaking into a boat, you know what will happen......

And I am sure our BC Ferry is the RoRo type of boat. What makes me even more uneasy is: this is "ghost month" in Chinese lunar calendar.

So I chose to sit on the top deck, and very close to the life boats.

It was a surprising rewards for sitting on the top deck - the view is absolutely gorgeous. After the ferry set sail at Twawaasen (anyone tell me how to pronounce it....), we headed into a group of small islands before we saw the shore of Vancouver Island. This group of island is called "Gulf Islands." Most of them are sparsely habitated. The feeling of sailing through these islands is just idyllic and romantic. I guess I am from an island country, so I always feel romantic about these islands, whatever they are big or small. I felt that when I was in Greece, Thailand, and in Carribean.......

And there is always a bigger island on the background of these small islands. Behind the Gulf Islands, it's Vancouver Island.

This Time, It's Little English Town

My first impression when I arrived the outskirt of Victoria, I thought: "it's just like another North American town". But that changed after I entered the downtown area, which is around its inner harbor area. "Oh, that feels like England."

Again and again, I heard about how English Victoria is compared to all other North America cities and towns (it is even named after one of the most famous English queens). Canada already has a city more French than any other cities on this side of Atlantic Ocean (Quebec City). Now they claim that they have a city more English than any others in North America. Maybe Victoria is really a good showcase for how well Canada maintain the cultural tie with its European precursors. Without a history of starting a war to fight for their independence, Canada is always more at ease to deal with their ties with their former colonists than the U.S.

But what impressed me most is not how much Victoria maintain its English heritage. Instead, it's how much they value their Native Indian culture.

Starting from the Stanley Park in Vancouver, I have seen a lot of things with Native Indian theme again and again in British Columbia. The Indian totem poles are glorified as an inseparable part of British Columbian history everywhere. It is the main theme in UBC's "Museum of Anthropology". And in Victoria, where the BC provincial capital located, this spirit of native Indian symbol is everywhere. Outside of the parliament building, in several gardens, and the large groups of totem poles outside of Royal Museum of British Columbia.

I was told that this museum is the place most deserving a visit in Victoria. Now I know why.

They have three main permanent exhibition areas and a temporary one. Native Indian history is one of them. The other two: Natural history and history of early British immigrants. Without doubts, the last part is the least appealing since we all see too much of that everywhere in North America. In the Indian part, it showcases the costume, housing style, and rituals of their culture before the "European invasion", and of course, more totem poles.

The Indians carve their mythology figures on the cedar tree wood and make them standing as totem poles, which feature all the symbolic carving of human beings, animals, and gods from the Indian legends. Many common British Columbia animals, such as bears, whales, eagles, and even salmons are shown as interesting figures on the poles. Sometimes they are juxtaposed with the human figures, most the chiefs of a tribe.

With the semi-professional Cannon camera at hand, I found that the totem poles are my favorite shooting objects all around Victoria.

Tea Time

Back to how ‘EEnglish Victoria is.

Because we all know, the English like to have a cup of (or many cups of) tea in the afternoon, between lunch and dinner. It is better known as "afternoon tea". Some small cake, finger food, and fruit are also needed to go with the tea. Some call it "high tea" after it becomes a very former afternoon social ritual.

And Victoria is famous for this "High Tea" rituals.

It is too famous that afternoon tea becomes a very commercial idea to sell. In the Empress Hotel, the beautiful old hotel located at the inner harbor, afternoon is the THING. Tourists coming from around the world waiting in the long lines just for having a 29 dollars' afternoon tea. Of course, the tea is unlimited and the finger food and deserts are ‘all you can eat'. But.....I just don't have the mood to spend that much money for it......

In fact, the most favorite drink for the local is not really tea anymore. It's the coffee, especially Starbuck style.